Statement of Practice

‘This Way and That’ – Specialism Knit


‘This Way and That’ describes the different directions of the knitted structures within this final collection of fabrics. The inspiration for this work comes from looking at repetitive patterns and colour, within natural forms, such as coral and markings of animals and sea life, as well as from art and architecture. Artists Antoni Gaudi and Frida Kahlo are the main inspirations behind the use of colour in this collection due to their vibrancy and contrasting tones. Architecture, such as the Louvre, and the London Eye has been the influence in creating open spaces within knitted structures. The geometry and the visibility of supporting structures was a huge influence. Primary photographs and visual research has enabled the development of the aesthetics of this collection, whilst experimentation with knitted structures, inspired by art and architecture, has lead to the structural development and manipulation of the fabrics you see here.

From this starting point the collection has developed into engineered upholstery fabrics over laser-cut panels to give depth and visually dynamic designs to upholster the chairs and fabrics on display. The effect that the repetitive pattern has when combined with the colour palette gives almost an optical illusion to each design, inspired by the work of Bridget Riley. To accompany these furniture designs, knitted interior fabrics using high quality natural yarns with subtle geometric structure and vibrant colours would add a lively touch to any interior space.
  
The challenges of this project started with discovering which materials would work best to hold the structure of the knit that was desired. Although having a superior feel to the synthetic yarns, wools and cottons were inadequate at holding the undulating knitted structure. After much experimentation with different combinations of yarns, polyester was discovered to give the best effect of holding shape and durability. Polyester, being a lively yarn, allowed experimentation with many structures that would combine the knitted fabric and 3D upholstery creating the desired effect.

The structural design of the fabric leads the choice and proportion of colour in this work. How the fabric sits on top of the foam inlay shows where the light and shade sits within the structure allowing choices in colour to directly correspond with the landscape of upholstery. Through trial and error the colour proportions were decided for maximum effect, lighter colours where the shadows would fall to keep the whole design balanced and bright.

By integrating the fabric and structural elements of the chairs, the overall effect would be a usable piece of structural and textural design.  The material needed to fill the knitted structure was a key factor within the design process, needing to be comfortable with the ability to recover to its crisp original shape when compressed.
Comfortable, light and leaving a clean edge when laser cut, foam matting seemed the obvious choice to help support the chairs upholstery. Utilising the laser cutter meant that a production line for the separate parts which make up the foam element of the chairs could be manufactured in an accurate and efficient way.

Having developed the best size and colour proportions, using the structure of the knitted fabric, the challenge came on how to attach it seamlessly to the foam inserts of the chair to give maximum impact visually as well as making the piece a usable item. Choosing an adhesive to use to attach the fabric to its framework of foam was a challenge. The glue had to dry quickly without leaving residue or affecting the handle of the fabric and yet be strong enough to ensure the durability of the chairs design. Copydex proved to be the best option after much testing as it held all of the properties desirable.

The colour palette of this collection stems from primary and secondary research into the works of Antoni Gaudi, Kaffe Fasset and Frida Kahlo. Their use of tone and contrast in colours has lead this collection to include a wider range of colours than was initially envisaged, enhancing the overall effect of the fabric design. The use of rich yellows and plums, fresh limes and blues and the shine of the metallic yarns give an overall balanced and intense effect of colours playing off each other and adding to the design, inviting interest and close up analysis to fully understand its intricacy.

Due to its instability knit is not often used as an upholstery fabric. With the added support of the foam inlay, stabilising the fabric, these designs it has became possible to produce knitted fabrics that would withstand becoming upholstery.
As it stands these fabrics could only be produced as part of the bespoke market. The intricacy of attaching the structural inserts means it would have to be done by hand, greatly adding to the markup of the product. 3D structures have been seen a lot more within conceptual fashion and textiles, but far less as a commercial enterprise within the interior and especially upholstery market. There is a distinct lack of this kind of knitted upholstery furniture on the market, and there could be a niche for this kind of engineered fabric which is specifically designed to become 3D by the insertion of panels.

Third year projects have flowed better than any other year at university. Feeling more confident in has meant that the designs created have had more original flare and enabled development surpassing previous projects. This confidence using the Shima Seiki software is what has helped to push forward ideas, which before would have felt out of reach. Having undertaken this degree, skills development have been shown through learning new software and operating the machinery that it supports. Organisation and planning skills have been tested with time restrictions and constant challenges that come with the design process.
Having, through placements, secured a job with the interior design company Lavender grey my future work within design will play to my strengths within interiors.





Research sources for studio practice

Visits/Exhibitions

Natural History Museum, London
British Museum, London
Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Science Museum, London
London Eye, London
London Zoo, London
Jean Paul Gaultier Exhibition, The Barbican, London
Kaffe Fassett Exhibition, Fashion and Textile Museum, London

York Minster, York

Premiere Vision, Paris
The Louvre, Paris
Bon Marche, Paris
Gallery Lafayette, Paris

Sangre Familia, Barcelona
Casa Batllo (House of Skulls) Barcelona


Brands/Designers/Artist

Bridget Riley
Andy Gilmore
Antoni Gaudi
Pieter Mondrian
Orla Keele
Missoni
Frida Kahlo
Stella Jean


Websites/Blogs

Archiproducts (2015) Available at: http://www.archiproducts.com/en/products/60346/acoustic-fabric-3d-textiles-casalis.html (Accessed: March 2015)

David Linley (2015) Available at: http://www.davidlinley.com/private-commission-projects/my-aurelia-chairs (Accessed: February 2015)

Habitat (2015) Available at: http://www.habitat.co.uk/categories/soft-furnishings/fcp-category/home (Assessed: January 2015)

John Lewis (2015) Available at: http://www.johnlewis.com/browse/home-garden/cushions-bean-bags-throws (Accessed: January 2015)

Missoni (2015) Available at: http://www.missoni.com/gb/missoni-home/themes_gid27528 (Assessed: March 2015)

Mocoloco (2015) Available at: http://mocoloco.com/ (Accessed: March 2015)

Orla Kiely (2015) Available at: http://www.orlakiely.com/uk.cfm/house/living/overview (Assessed: February 2015)

Pan Dan (2006) Available at: http://pan-dan.blogspot.co.uk/2006/10/janette-matthews.html (Assessed: February 2015)

Pintrest (2015) (Accessed: January 2015 towards)

https://uk.pinterest.com/jenstanbrook/living-rooms/

https://uk.pinterest.com/thebrunetteone/interiors-%2B-exteriors/

https://uk.pinterest.com/2nuts/indoor/

https://uk.pinterest.com/alisonwheeler49/colour-combinations/

https://uk.pinterest.com/mallika1982/home-decor-and-gardens-that-i-love/

https://uk.pinterest.com/sarunedands/30-eye-candy/

Sofa Workshop (2015) Available at: http://www.sofaworkshop.com (Assessed: February 2015)

Yatzer (2015) Available at: http://yatzer.com/category/design (Accessed: February 2015)


Magazines and books

Elle Home Magazine, Accessed (2015)

Birren, F. (1970) Itten, The elements of color. London: Chapman and Hall

“Light the Fuse” Selvedge; July/August 2014, Issue 59, p12-15, 4p

Pattern Book, Accessed (2015)

Wallpaper Magazine

Design Magazine

Frame Magazine


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