‘This Way and That’ – Specialism Knit
‘This Way and That’ describes the different
directions of the knitted structures within this final collection of fabrics. The
inspiration for this work comes from looking at repetitive patterns and colour,
within natural forms, such as coral and markings of animals and sea life, as
well as from art and architecture. Artists Antoni Gaudi and Frida Kahlo are the
main inspirations behind the use of colour in this collection due to their
vibrancy and contrasting tones. Architecture, such as the Louvre, and the
London Eye has been the influence in creating open spaces within knitted
structures. The geometry and the visibility of supporting structures was a huge
influence. Primary photographs and visual research has enabled the development
of the aesthetics of this collection, whilst experimentation with knitted
structures, inspired by art and architecture, has lead to the structural
development and manipulation of the fabrics you see here.
From this starting point the collection has developed
into engineered upholstery fabrics over laser-cut panels to give depth and
visually dynamic designs to upholster the chairs and fabrics on display. The effect
that the repetitive pattern has when combined with the colour palette gives almost
an optical illusion to each design, inspired by the work of
Bridget Riley. To accompany these furniture designs, knitted interior fabrics using
high quality natural yarns with subtle geometric structure and vibrant colours
would add a lively touch to any interior space.
The challenges of this project started with
discovering which materials would work best to hold the structure of the knit
that was desired. Although having a superior feel to the synthetic yarns, wools
and cottons were inadequate at holding the undulating knitted structure. After
much experimentation with different combinations of yarns, polyester was discovered
to give the best effect of holding shape and durability. Polyester, being a
lively yarn, allowed experimentation with many structures that would combine
the knitted fabric and 3D upholstery creating the desired effect.
The structural design of the fabric leads the choice
and proportion of colour in this
work. How the fabric sits on top of the foam inlay shows where the light and
shade sits within the structure allowing choices in colour to directly
correspond with the landscape of upholstery. Through trial and error the colour
proportions were decided for maximum effect, lighter colours where the shadows
would fall to keep the whole design balanced and bright.
By integrating the fabric and structural elements of
the chairs, the overall effect would be a usable piece of structural and
textural design. The material needed to
fill the knitted structure was a key factor within the design process, needing
to be comfortable with the ability to recover to its crisp original shape when
compressed.
Comfortable, light and leaving a clean edge when
laser cut, foam matting seemed the obvious choice to help support the chairs
upholstery. Utilising the laser cutter meant that a production line for the
separate parts which make up the foam element of the chairs could be
manufactured in an accurate and efficient way.
Having developed the best size and colour proportions,
using the structure of the knitted fabric, the challenge came on how to attach
it seamlessly to the foam inserts of the chair to give maximum impact visually
as well as making the piece a usable item. Choosing an adhesive to use to
attach the fabric to its framework of foam was a challenge. The glue had to dry quickly without
leaving residue or affecting the handle of the fabric and yet be strong enough
to ensure the durability of the chairs design. Copydex proved to be the best
option after much testing as it held all of the properties desirable.
The colour palette of this collection stems from
primary and secondary research into the works of Antoni Gaudi, Kaffe Fasset and
Frida Kahlo. Their use of tone and contrast in colours has lead this collection
to include a wider range of colours than was initially envisaged, enhancing the
overall effect of the fabric design. The use of rich yellows and plums, fresh
limes and blues and the shine of the metallic yarns give an overall balanced
and intense effect of colours playing off each other and adding to the design, inviting
interest and close up analysis to fully understand its intricacy.
Due to its instability knit is not often used as an
upholstery fabric. With the added support of the foam inlay, stabilising the
fabric, these designs it has became possible to produce knitted fabrics that
would withstand becoming upholstery.
As it stands these fabrics could only be produced as
part of the bespoke market. The intricacy of attaching the structural inserts
means it would have to be done by hand, greatly adding to the markup of the
product. 3D structures have been seen a lot more within conceptual fashion and
textiles, but far less as a commercial enterprise within the interior and
especially upholstery market. There is a distinct lack of this kind of knitted
upholstery furniture on the market, and there could be a niche for this
kind of engineered fabric which is specifically designed to become 3D by the
insertion of panels.
Third year projects have flowed better than any other
year at university. Feeling more confident in has meant that the designs
created have had more original flare and enabled development surpassing
previous projects. This confidence using the Shima Seiki software is what has
helped to push forward ideas, which before would have felt out of reach. Having
undertaken this degree, skills development have been shown through learning new
software and operating the machinery that it supports. Organisation and
planning skills have been tested with time restrictions and constant challenges that come with the design process.
Having, through placements, secured a job with the
interior design company Lavender grey my
future work within design will play to my strengths within interiors.
Research sources for studio practice
Visits/Exhibitions
Natural History Museum, London
British Museum, London
Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Science Museum, London
London Eye, London
London Zoo, London
Jean Paul Gaultier Exhibition, The Barbican, London
Kaffe Fassett Exhibition, Fashion and Textile Museum,
London
York Minster, York
Premiere Vision, Paris
The Louvre, Paris
Bon Marche, Paris
Gallery Lafayette,
Paris
Sangre Familia, Barcelona
Casa Batllo (House of Skulls) Barcelona
Brands/Designers/Artist
Bridget Riley
Andy Gilmore
Antoni Gaudi
Pieter Mondrian
Orla Keele
Missoni
Frida Kahlo
Stella Jean
Websites/Blogs
Archiproducts
(2015) Available at: http://www.archiproducts.com/en/products/60346/acoustic-fabric-3d-textiles-casalis.html
(Accessed: March 2015)
David
Linley (2015) Available at: http://www.davidlinley.com/private-commission-projects/my-aurelia-chairs
(Accessed: February 2015)
Habitat
(2015) Available at: http://www.habitat.co.uk/categories/soft-furnishings/fcp-category/home
(Assessed: January 2015)
John Lewis
(2015) Available at: http://www.johnlewis.com/browse/home-garden/cushions-bean-bags-throws
(Accessed: January 2015)
Missoni
(2015) Available at: http://www.missoni.com/gb/missoni-home/themes_gid27528
(Assessed: March 2015)
Mocoloco
(2015) Available at: http://mocoloco.com/ (Accessed: March 2015)
Orla Kiely
(2015) Available at: http://www.orlakiely.com/uk.cfm/house/living/overview
(Assessed: February 2015)
Pan Dan
(2006) Available at: http://pan-dan.blogspot.co.uk/2006/10/janette-matthews.html
(Assessed: February 2015)
Pintrest
(2015) (Accessed: January 2015 towards)
https://uk.pinterest.com/jenstanbrook/living-rooms/
https://uk.pinterest.com/thebrunetteone/interiors-%2B-exteriors/
https://uk.pinterest.com/2nuts/indoor/
https://uk.pinterest.com/alisonwheeler49/colour-combinations/
https://uk.pinterest.com/mallika1982/home-decor-and-gardens-that-i-love/
https://uk.pinterest.com/sarunedands/30-eye-candy/
Sofa
Workshop (2015) Available at: http://www.sofaworkshop.com
(Assessed: February 2015)
Yatzer (2015)
Available at: http://yatzer.com/category/design (Accessed: February 2015)
Magazines and books
Elle Home
Magazine, Accessed (2015)
Birren, F. (1970) Itten, The elements of color. London: Chapman and Hall
“Light
the Fuse” Selvedge;
July/August 2014, Issue 59, p12-15, 4p
Pattern
Book, Accessed (2015)
Wallpaper
Magazine
Design Magazine
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